AeroX Vertical frame

A few weeks ago I got my hands on an AeroX frame, which is a vertical arms design.
I had no idea how it would fly, but after a few flights now I can say that I love this little rocket! 😀

First of all, the quad looks heavy but when thinking about it, it is quite the same “amount” of carbon used like in the more traditional designs, the AeroX is weighing in at 90g. The company behind the AeroX, Tetra Drones also offers the Pod/Canopy and all other 3D parts as free downloads which I really appreciate. That way you can easily print your own replacement parts and also give your Quad a personal note 😉

You can not only choose a 5″ or 6″ version of the frame but also an alternative frame material instead of the trusted carbon, called “Phenolic edition” which is not only cheaper but also 8% lighter compared to carbon, on the downside though it is not 100% as strong as carbon but can still take a beating according to their website.

For my build I went with a 5″ version in 15mm build heigth (there is also a “roomier” 20mm” version) and the “Haywire Graphics kit” made in cooperation with the well-known STIKIT skins. PLEASE NOTE: the Graphics kit is only available for this setup as of now, but they are working on skins for all the other frame options (6″, 20mm, etc.)

AeroX vertical frame

The 15mm build was not easy but still manageable with an AIO FC, I went with the
Sunrise F4 FC AIO BLHeli_32 30A. It was really fun to setup this frame and all parts, as it was a nice change from the usual frames we all build 🙂 Everything fit well and easy to understand how all parts connect. The frame comes with two braces which are missing in the upper shot, they are intended to give even more stability.

The full setup consists of RotorRiot Hypetrain 2306 2450kV motors,
HQ5x48x3 V1S, Sunrise F4 AIO BLHeli_32 30A, FrSky XM+, Foxeer Arrow V3 and a TBS Unify Pro HV.
Next step is to swap the XM+ with a TBS Crossfire to get some proper range with it 🙂

A few build pics:

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Unify pigtail routed through the top plate, UFL connector secured by additional heatshrink

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FrSky XM+ on top of the Unify, cables routed through the top as well

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Top view without the canopy attached

AeroX in the wild! 😀



Here’s a short freestyle clip made with AeroX on a rather windy day 🙂
I have always preached a H/wide style frame with lipo on top as the only real way to fly freestyle but this quad makes myself question that 😀 It feels damn well in the air despite it being a bottom-mount lipo Stretch X, which is a setup I actually prefer when racing 😀

EU distribution of AeroX

free 3D parts link for the AeroX frame


MAD 2306 2400kV

So many new motors out and it is not like you only have to go for the well-known brands nowadays! 🙂

MAD Components made a great debut in the FPV scene with their 2306 2400kV motors following the “naked bottom” trend and a wider stator for more efficiency.
I was quite surprised by the cool packaging of the motors, other brands should really step up their game here 🙂
Makes you feel better when spending all this money on FPV stuff 😀

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Some technical details about the motors:
– 13.0mm shaft
– 5.5mm thread screw
– 7.5mm thread screw
– comes with a 4.5mm flange nut

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You can purchase them at shop.

A more detailed and technical bench test @ MQTB

MAD Components Facebook channel

Asgard F4 AIO

New stuff just in! 🙂 This time my first AIO called the ASGARD F4 AIO
Was lucky to get one of only a few of the first stock at
(link to product page:

So what’s in the box?

With the Asgard F4 AIO you get a F4 FlightController (STM32F405 MCU)
with four pieces of BLHeli_S ESC, an integrated OSD, SD Card slot for blackbox logging,
a Current sensor and a 5V/3V BEC at 14.1g weight, 2-4S Lipo compatible.

The PCB features the standard 30.5 x 30.5mm mounting holes:


The on board ESCs support DSHot (J_H_15 firmware) and are rated for 25A continuous
and about 30A burst. The ESC has been tested under 3-4S 2308 2300kV Motor and 5045×3 props,
actual current though depends on air flow and there is a big L shaped solder pad which will improve
on high current perfomance if you add solder (pictured red in the tech pic below).


The USB port and SD card slot on the other side. The default installation would be like pictured,
XT60 facing to the right side. The ESC parts add to the whole size of the PDB and probably making
it harder to install in some of the Pod frames available. Installation in “classic” shaped frames is of
course no problem. I’m planning to put this AIO into the not yet released LM2 frame by LMultirotors.

Technical layout details
F4 side
F4 chip side

USB / SD side

And as always, flight footage coming soon!
If you want to see how it performs, please subscribe to my YouTube channel
here => 🙂

Next available stock of Asgard F4 AIO will be on 22.04.2017 @ 

Thanks for reading and happy flying! 🙂

Custom FPV Stuff

After a lot of requests where I got my different connectors and cables for my colored XT60 post on Instagram,
I made this article to share all the different sources I ordered from 🙂
(some Links are Affiliate Links)

Sizes used: 12/14AWG for XT60 (prefer lighter AWG14) / 26AWG signal/ground cables / ESC cables 18AWG

Silicone Cable – yellow

Silicone Cable – green

Silicone Cable – blue

colored Cable ties

red and black heat shrink

red and black Silicone wire

white 14AWG cable

white 26AWG cable

orange & green XT60 connector

black XT60 connector

red / blue / yellow XT60 connector

lots of cables at Hobbyking!

yellow / green / blue / grey / black / purple heatshrink Set

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link placeholder 🙂

FrSky M9 Hall Sensor Gimbal

The wait is over! Horus-like controls on Taranis

The FrSky M9 is a Hall Sensor Gimbal replacement for the stock Gimbals used in the beloved Taranis.
The difference here is that the M9 gimbals make use of a Hall effect Sensor instead of Potentiometers like stock X9D Gimbals.

Advantages of the M9 Gimbals over the stock ones would be the feel, centering accuracy and longevity.
Hall effect sensors do not have any parts touching the rotating surface so there is no wear on the sensor.

Available to buy at you can find the M9 gimbals HERE or at
A single gimbal retails at 20.50$, shipping costs from 0$ up to 10$ for express delivery.

UPDATE 12.01.2017: currently sold out – you can still pre-order the next batch HERE for 0.01$

The gimbals here are universal, meaning one product for both sides.
You just remove the centering spring from the one you want to use for throttle.

According to HorusRC staff this gimbal is only working with the X9D “plus” version of the Taranis.
The difference to X9D is added background light and vibration, therefore we don’t see a reason it shouldn’t work with a non “plus” Taranis. We will keep you updated on this.
UPDATE: HorusRC just replied me and stated that it also works with the earlier X9D version

Check this YouTube vid on how to install them into your Taranis:

M9 Gimbal product photos by


TBS BulletProof 25A ESC

Got my hands on a set of the new BulletProof 25A BLHeli_S ESCs made by TBS.
The ESCs itself feature little TBS logos on the transistors and come in a black resealable packaging.
Although these are just minor details, I do love those little things that TBS adds to their products. Did you know about the Konami Code on their FPV remote called Tango? 😉


TBS ESC Packaging

What you get per package is of course one ESC along with a transparent piece of heatshrink,
2x 18AWG power leads and 2x 22AWG ground/signal leads.
The signal ground goes next to the main ground solder pad, and the signal cable gets soldered to the small solder pad right in the middle. The ESC were delivered with BLHeli_S 16.3, flashed them to 16.5 with Betaflight passthrough on my Kombini FC and copied the factory settings they came with.

TBS ESC Contents

The ESCs are not called “BulletProof” just for fun, they actually have an acrylic conformal coating which makes them harder to solder at first but makes them more withstanding against later abuse. AGAIN: the solder won’t attach like you might be used to at first, but that’s a feature, not a bug 😉

A little how-to-solder tip from RCGroups user “AILERON8”:

“Try using the side of your soldering tip; add a dab of solder to the tip as well. The increased surface area will transfer heat more efficiently. Having the glob of solder on the tip also increases the surface area. It helps to add heat to both the wire and the pad, and if you pretinned both beforehand you should be able to solder these following the procedure I specified above.”

DShot Capability

If you want to use DShot with these ESCs you will have to remove a capacitor,
Capacitor TBS BLHeli_S DShot ESC
see the following link for more info:

UPDATE: official TBS how-to on the removal of the specific capacitor
Warranty is lost of course after this modification.

Official product page //

Have a look at the official product page for its Specifications and an optional 220uF 35V Capacitor, which is recommended by TBS for 6S users and high kV/heavy prop combos:

Size-wise they are at 17x25mm which makes them about 20% smaller than e.g. the KISS 24A ESC. Though a bit larger as the Aikon 30A ESC competitor, the TBS BulletProof 25A offers something new to the BLHeli_S market, an “Active Burn Protection”, which is basically limiting the max current at 35A. Plenty enough if you consider that lipos are still todays bottleneck in our powerful little quads.

My latest unfinished build with those ESCs… as always you will find some FPV footage about the whole Setup and the TBS ESCs later on this page… damn winter in Germany keeps me from flying 🙂


For the real “BlackSheep” look I got me some black cables from Banggood 🙂
18AWG power leads >>
26AWG signal / signal ground >>
14AWG XT60 cable >>
black XT60 connector >>
ESC held in place with “Rapstraps” >>

Hope you enjoyed this little insight on the newest TBS ESC!